Amid a whirlwind of international openings, celebrity chefs and haute cuisine in Riyadh, Suhail shows that Saudi Arabia’s national nosh still offers plenty to write home about.
Named after one of the brightest stars in the sky, this elegant spot aims to combine traditional dishes with a refined aesthetic at a surprisingly trendy dining complex hidden away just off the Northern Ring Road.
Overseen by the same team behind neighbouring Lusin – a firm favourite among the city’s diners – the menu here offers plenty of contemporary twists alongside more familiar flavours.
Instead of being doled out from a bubbling pot on the stove, Suhail’s porridge-like jareesh is delicately garnished with a carefully constructed ensemble of caramelised onion and gold leaf before being served in heavy hand-crafted ceramic pottery.
Likewise, the marqoq curry, a Gulf staple, is elevated with a dash of truffle oil and comforting chunks of dough. Yet the chefs have wisely chosen not to meddle with the Kingdom’s most revered dishes.
The lamb kabsa sees traditional layers of marinated meat nestled simply among mountains of spiced rice. It’s as fragrant and flavourful as any we have tried, and a clear hit among the largely local crowd.
Meanwhile, flavours from the northwestern Saudi city of Ha’il are mixed into thick and gooey temman, and generously sprinkled on warm grape leaves wrapped around rice.
The knockout winning dessert is the hneini cheesecake, combining layers of Saudi date sweets with a thick biscuit base and generous lashings of cardamom caramel sauce.
It’s a proper wedge of cheesecake, but we’re more than ready for another slice after working our way through the plate in mere minutes.
Although Suhail’s take on Saudi cuisine is the star of the show, the interiors (and outside terrace) are more than worthy of an Instagram post – but no filters are needed here.
Indoors, a labyrinth of curved wooden walls evokes the rugged landscapes of Saudi’s historic AlUla region, with intimate coves creating private corners alongside a much larger main dining room.
The terrace outside, safely out of earshot of the main road traffic, sits beneath dozens of dangling lamps surrounded by manicured moats of water.
Faux-floating dining platforms, up-lit palm trees and minimalist Arabesque architecture mean the outdoor area feels far more like a luxury resort than a city-centre dining complex.
It’s worth saving for a special occasion rather than an everyday dinner.
Whether you’ve got a jareesh-shaped hole in your stomach, or want to sample local cuisine in elegant surroundings while visiting Riyadh, Suhail’s contemporary take on traditional dishes shines brightly on the city’s dining scene.
