Anticipation builds as you drive up the winding entrance to Laysen Valley to reach Halepi at the further end. You’re likely heading to this relaxed eatery for Greek food, but you’re already served a side of surprising views from the new complex.
On arrival, Halepi’s entrance is slightly confusing, with it not being directly off valet parking, but around the back. The quick walk gives you the chance to decide whether you want to eat indoors, surrounded by large clay pots, or on the patio. With this being a brand-new complex, there is still some construction evident, but Halepi’s terrace is already charming with its trees, music and just-right lighting.
Preceded by its London reputation, Halepi has been a much-anticipated arrival on the Riyadh food scene, which has given its covers an early boost.
Halepi is meant to be “the soul of Greece in a platter”, which certainly sets a level of expectation. It’s not without merit as the unassuming family-fun London eatery and kebab house has been feeding diners since 1966 with comforting and classic dishes, especially the milk-fed lamb. (More on that later). The Riyadh eatery might have a slicker, more modern finish, but the approachable, homey Greek dishes remain. There are utter classics as well as plates you might not be as familiar with, especially in the Saudi capital.
Portions are generous and food appears out of the kitchen fast. There is Greek salad of course – and it’s no surprise the dish is seen on pretty much every table. The signature milk-fed lamb is what you hear about. You might balk at the SAR590 price tag, but it feeds up to four people. Overall, the prices are reasonable and it’s an opportunity for Riyadh diners to learn more about Greek dishes, beyond spanakopita and moussaka – although we recommend the generous portion of the latter. Enjoy it with slow-cooked lamb and marinated beetroot with apple and celery.
The majority of cold and hot meze and desserts are well under SAR50 while most mains, grills and specialties hover around SAR100. Veggies take note, there’s a section on the menu just for you.
With the venue still in its infancy, there are things that will likely get ironed out with staff dynamics and timings. The latter is especially helpful when meze and mains are involved. There are lots of waitstaff, but tables can be mistakenly left alone, or overloaded by servers and plates. Additionally, there is room to bring in the little touches that really make an experience special, such as a signature amuse bouche or great Greek bread.
We’re intrigued to see how Halepi develops as part of the build around Laysen Valley, as well as in Riyadh’s restaurant scene overall. There are many on point French and Italian restaurants on the city, and it would be nice to see more representation with a really great, go-to Greek place. Halepi could be it one day.
