While you may never have heard of Rainer Becker, we are pretty confident that you’ll know his restaurants. Roka and Zuma, anyone? These award-winning Japanese restaurants have made a home for themselves in cities across the world. Roka already opened in Riyadh last summer, and Zuma is set to follow soon.
Since Becker’s restaurants are only reserved for the most hip and happening cities, he must clearly think highly of Saudi Arabia’s capital. So we caught up the chef turned restaurateur to chat about dishes, drive and domination of the restaurant scene.
The German native had a cute start to cooking, as he would help his mum out in the kitchen. He turned that passion into a career, and after working for the Hyatt Hotel Group for 14 years, he gained experience in Sydney, London and, most crucially, Tokyo. He fell in love with Japanese food – “it looks simple on the outside but it’s very complex” – and mastered the art of izakaya (informal eating experience) and robatayaki (fireside cooking).
In 2002 he launched his first-ever restaurant, Zuma, then in 2004 he gave it a culinary cousin, Roka. Both of the restaurants were located in London, but the Becker brand has spanned across the globe to cities including Hong Kong, Miami and New York.
When one of his restaurants throws down a foodie gauntlet, the other seems to pick it up. In the United Arab Emirates there is Roka Dubai, Zuma Dubai and Zuma Abu Dhabi – the latter got the Time Out Abu Dhabi seal of approval, winning gongs including Restaurant of the Year, while the others competed against each other for Time Out Dubai’s Best Japanese Restaurant.
When a heavyweight restaurateur like Becker comes to your town, you know that it is well and truly on the foodie map.
Becker reflects, “A business priority for us is to expand the international footprint of Roka and the Kingdom is one of the key markets for us. Although Roka was founded 17 years ago in London, I feel like it’s a young brand – it’s very creative and innovative. So bringing the brand to Riyadh at this time just felt right.”
Trying to give a global brand a local feel must prove challenging. Becker explains, “While each Roka design is unique, fundamentally we tend to use the same or similar materials throughout all the restaurants but they are utilised in different ways and different elements are emphasised.
“We want guests to recognise they are in a Roka but also feel that the experience is different dependant on the location. In Riyadh specifically several of the key design elements are similar to those in Roka Mayfair, London – this was simply because we have a large amount of Saudi cliental that dine there and we wanted there to be familiarity.”
The dining room is all industrial chic, from its dimly-lit interiors to its long tables by the kitchen, which lets you ease drop in on the chefs at work. The impressive 5,629 square feet space can seat up to 161 people inside and 82 outside on its recently opened terrace. If you book a table outside, you can admire the city views and listen to the resident DJ spinning tunes.
There’s no denying that Roka restaurants across the world are glamorous – it’s become somewhat of a celebrity haunt, as you regularly see A-listers, from Ellie Goulding to Bradley Cooper, in a post-meal papparazi shot. Don’t let the tabloid images give you the wrong impression, however, as the real star of the show is the food.
When it comes to Roka, it’s all about the robata grill, from its different layers to the different combinations of charcoal, which create the big bold flavours that everyone bangs on about. So, what dishes are exclusive to Riyadh’s menu? Becker explains, “In terms of the menu, we open our restaurants with the core Roka menu.”
He adds, “Once we have been open for a few months, we then start working on dishes tailored to the location. We listen to the wants of guests, see what sells and so on. We are at this stage currently in Riyadh, and the team are working on new dishes that I tried on this trip – so watch this space.”
If someone wants to dine out at Roka, what dishes should they order? Becker enthuses, “Oh, that’s tricky as there are so many great dishes. If I had to choose I would say the kampachi salad, which is yellowtail sashimi, yuzu-truffle dressing – it’s a dish that Roka has become known for in all of our locations.
“The lamb cutlets with Korean spices is the dish I crave even after all of these years – it’s the ultimate Roka signature. My final dish would be the Roka “baked’ potato, which may sound like an odd dish to pick but it has become a surprise hit. I think it’s because of the theatre at the table – it is a must try.”
Put aside any canteen connotations you have of a baked potato. The humble dish is elevated into a sizzling showstopper, which is executed with Becker-style finesse. He’s clearly not one for, well, half-baked ideas. For starters, it’s called the bekudopoteto, it comes with yuzu cream and chives, and is mashed together before your very eyes.
So how long do we have to wait until the next Becker opening? Becker responds, “Roka for us is the priority right now. We want to make sure we have it right, and have it established before bringing another restaurant into the city. The Roka team are doing a fantastic job and the business is establishing itself and growing. Now is the time we are putting our energy into tailoring the experience for the Saudi market.”
When it comes to Becker’s own Saudi experience, he’s just getting started. He shares, “Unfortunately, my trip on this occasion was very short, so I didn’t get to see as much as I would have liked. Having said that, I think Saudi Arabia and Riyadh in particular is entering a very exciting phase for hospitality. There are a huge amount of new openings and an influx of international restaurants, Riyadh is experiencing a massive boom.”
When he’s not cooking up a storm, he’s into motorsports and loves racing and restoring cars. Food is his number one love, however, and is where he draw the majority of his inspiration in life.
He muses, “Lots keeps me inspired. I am a chef first and foremost. Even if I am not in the kitchen so much anymore, food, favour and creation inspires me hugely still. I really enjoy collaborating with the team on dishes and working through that development from start to finish. I also really enjoy the process of creating a restaurant, from conception and design through to opening and establishing it – it’s my passion”. Long may that passion continue.
Prince Muhammad Bin Abdulaziz Road, rokarestaurant.com (9200 12327).
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