Souvlaki by souvlaki, the Middle East is going Greek – and Riyadh’s food scene is no different. Meraki Riyadh is the latest eatery to serve up the cuisine.
Whether it’s mezze-style spreads of refreshing tzatziki (cucumber and yoghurt) and htipiti (red pepper and cheese) or a comforting slice of feta-and-spinach spanakopita pie, foodies are flocking faster than you can say ‘opa’.
Meraki Riyadh, headed up by Mykonos veteran and Top Chef winner Athinagoras Kostakos, promises to bring a taste of those fresh Hellenic flavours direct to the heart of Riyadh – and it more than delivers.
Tucked under the famous pyramid-shaped Al Faisaliah hotel in the centre of the Olaya dining district, the restaurant transports diners to Greece using ingredients shipped in from the Mediterranean.
Busy and atmospheric with a dimly lit, split-level dining room (don’t expect any plate-smashing here) the restaurant’s sharing plates concept lends itself well to large groups, which make up the bulk of tables during our mid-evening visit.
The trademark dips offer an inventive twist, with a swirl of cucumber emulsion running through the tzatziki rather than traditional chopped-up chunks, and the htipiti’s gentle kick of spice is much more welcome than the traditionally fiery version served in many eateries.
A waiter-recommended beef fillet kebab is a particular standout, with the glaze full of Greek flavours such as lemon, olive oil and oregano, accompanied by a soothing avocado tzatziki and charcoal-grilled vegetables. It’s quick to disappear from the table, and we’d quite happily have ordered another.
Buried deep in the menu of side dishes is another surprise hit in the shape of the truffle rice. A rich, chaotic mix of basmati and nuts held together by creamy labneh and balanced out with a generous handful of raisins, it’s easy to miss alongside Greek favourites, but well worth an order to add a touch of Middle Eastern flavour to a table of traditional cuisine.
The slight Achilles’ heel is the saganki (fried cheese), which could be served a little quicker off the pan, with the moreishly salty flavours of the melted mastelo slightly lost to a rubbery texture and thick breadcrumb crust – but as a whole the meal more than merits a return visit.
Service here is professional and swift, with dishes appearing seemingly out of thin air as an ever-changing line-up of waiters sweeps by.
Even small requests are attended to quickly – bitter lemon and mint juice is sweetened without hesitation, and the open kitchen is more than happy to quickly refill fast-diminishing baskets of fresh pita breads (although notably these are charged as an extra).
As Riyadh’s dining scene expands to take in a greater range of cuisines from across continents, Meraki Riyadh is a must-visit for a taste of traditional Hellenic flavours with an inventive twist.
Get ready to Greek out.
